26-29 July 2014
Yesterday I walked historic Warsaw. Today, I walk through the recent history of the Warsaw Ghetto and Warsaw Rising. I leave the modern comfort of my hotel to walk the dark history of Warsaw’s sewers, death squads, and destruction.
26-29 July 2014
I have walked more than 150 miles of Poland, enjoying its art, architecture, museums, fortresses and churches, and learning more of Poland’s history. My last days in Poland will be touring Warsaw or Varsava as the Warszawian’s pronounce the city. The city’s harrowing story is one of death and destruction, uprisings and resilience, pride and rebuilding. A story of a city and its citizens rising from the ashes of war. A story of its Jews. A story written in its art, photos, films, music, architecture, and in the streets of Warsaw.
25 July 2014
Two outstanding sites are within minutes of Gdańsk. A short sea voyage will take me through the huge port and out the channel to the forested peninsula of Westerplatte and respite from crowds. An hour train ride delivers me to the largest brick structure built by Man and a most imposing fortress – Malbork Castle. Read more…
23-26 July 2014
The entire city of Gdańsk, from the Upland Gate to the Motława Canal, every cobbled street and alley, is a masterpiece of architecture. Cool Baltic breezes rush over the city. Market Square is filled with monks, bürgers, wenches and knights. Children practice their swordsmanship while minstrels entertain. Ah, wandering maiden, you have arrived in the Dutch Renaissance capitol of Danzig in the midst of St. Dominic’s Fair and merchants, as they have for centuries, are rubbing their hands with glee.
21-22 July 2014
I’m confused. From the moment I arrived in Poznań I have been direction-challenged. Thankfully, my iPad gets me around. Just 125 miles northeast of Wrocław, Posnań has been a Polish city since the early 1900s and became a cruelly occupied city, first by the Germans, then by the Communists. But the real story of Poznań is the 1956 Uprising.
19-21 July 2014
Entering Wrocław’s Rynek, or old market square, is a jaw-dropping experience. Its gothic town hall is an architectural masterpiece. Surrounded by a colorful plethora of citizens’ houses, filled with restaurants and strolling multitudes, the Rynek is a perfect square for rubbernecking. I immediately wish I had longer to visit. Wrocław has been designated a European Capital of Culture for 2016. I say don’t wait. Go now.
16-19 July 2014
Wow, now here is a city! Walkable historic center, lively, inexpensive, clean, good food and beer, cafés and street shopping. I immediately like the old-world atmosphere of Kraków. Its awesome main square is filled with the noises, conversations, horse carriages, music, and clinking glasses and cups of locals out to enjoy their city. I am happy to be here sharing it with them.